Albergue del Peregrino

Last night I had coffee in a bar across the river from

the refugio which is also a hostel: Gran Bar Punta Brava for 2,000.

pts. I haven't eaten a decent meal since lunch yesterday where I had

eggs in a little town called Orbaneja with a clumsy waitress. This

morning I went back to the bar and left my pack with the woman

running the bar who said her son handles the hostel. I would have to

return later to check in. Walked a few kilometers along the river to

the center of Burgos and spent several hours checking out the amazing

cathedral. Took many photographs and met the Danes who are also

spending an extra day here before busing on to the coast. I returned

to the hostel, checked in, and went upstairs to wash myself and my

clothes. It was a nice feeling to be in a large city for a change,

with its crowds and multitude of bars and shops. At about 6:00 P.M. I

went downstairs to inquire about dinner and was informed that the

appropriate time to eat was 9:00 P.M. Of course! What was I thinking?

Anyway, I returned to my room for a bit of bread and cheese I had

left over and decided to head back to town in search of stamps, a

jacket or sweater since I was still cold, and dinner when the

restaurants finally open.

Cathedral Archway.

Detail from Archway.

At 7:30 I walked downtown and noticed a crowd of people going into an

ancient church. I followed them inside to find a magnificent

cathedral with an amazing alter. A old hunchback priest unlocks a

silver door at the center alter and brings out a chalice with

"bread." As he gives communion to the faithful I noticed a wonderful

statue of a missionary priest with his hand over his heart. There is

an indian kneeling at his feet and they are both in a state of

spiritual bliss, with the priest definitely in control. While I have

great respect for all religions, this mass brings out all sorts of

issues I have with ritual and orthodox religious ceremony. While the

ritual is glorious, what it represents in terms of a personal

commitment and adherence to doctrine is a bit over the top for a

Protestant like myself. Now another priest takes over and speaks at a

rapid fire pace as the congregation responds.

Larger than life puppets.

A few doors from the church I went into a basement shop where a man

was making botas. I enjoyed the idea of buying one directly from the

craftsman who makes them and bought a small .25 liter one (weight is

a factor) for 800 pts. Still feeling chilly, I walked another block

to a clothes store and bought a very conservative cardigan sweater

and proceeded to the HiFi Cafe for cafe solo. I enjoyed my cafe and

noticed how urbane, well dressed, and generally civilized the the

citizens of Burgos are. After leaving the cafe, I walked across the

river to the Plaza Mayor were the spectacle was unbelievable. Did I

mention that this was festival week? The crush of people was unlike

anything I had ever experienced. Literally thousands of people

crowded into the plaza and I was concerned for the children and old

people. No one one panicked and everyone seemed to take it in stride.

Frightening and fun.

Live television was there with satellite uplink ready to report every

moment of the planned event which was unfolding on a stage I couldn't

see. The atmosphere was definitely festive with live music in every

corner, including an acid rock band in the shadow of the cathedral.

Festival dancers.

Definitely an interesting yet somehow appropriate combination.

Peruvian indians, blacks, and Asians all hawking cool stuff on the

street. Bands marching and singing paraded through the narrow

streets. I stood in an archway of the cathedral and listened to an

exceptional band and watched the revelers. Old, young, and teenagers,

danced and drank with total abandon. These people know how to party.

The bars are absolutely packed. Eventually, I find a small restaurant

and have the best dinner of roast lamb and melon desert I've had in Spain.

The next morning I leave late after yet another comical experience

exchanging American Express travelers checks. My advice is to never

use them and stick to credit card cash advances. Much easier and

convenient. Anyway, in the bank trying to cash checks, there are two

men working on it. While one is holding it up to the light, turning

it over and over examining it closely, the other is making phone

calls about it. Suddenly, the machine spits out a receipt and I have

the cash. Very amusing - the transformation between appearing to have

never seen a travelers check to business as usual.

Burgos shop.