French pilgrim, Wanni, and Evelyne compare notes.

2:15 having lunch in Rabe de Las Calzadas. Local kids are practicing

disco to Saturday Night Fever music in the streets. Other than the

dancers there isn't a soul in sight. As I am having my lunch one

pilgrim passes by, a woman traveling alone. I feel tired and my pack

seems unusually heavy. Too much resting in Burgos, I suppose, has

made me lazy. After spending the night in Hornillos del Camino which

has a pleasant and modern refugio I continued to Aroyo de san Bol

where I looked forward to meeting the legendary Louis. I walked part

of the 11 kilometers with Evelyne, an Italian born journalist living

in France who is working on an article on the Camino, and Wanni her

friend from the Canary Islands. The weather is perfect and as we

walked we met with an American biker and a French pilgrim, both

traveling alone and in the opposite direction from us. They had

already been to Santiago and were on their way back to where they

started. I was very impressed with the French pilgrim who had a

notable sense of serenity about her. Also I didn't meet very many

pilgrims who returned to their homes on foot like the pilgrims of old.

Inside Aroyo de san Bol (Pepe & Louis 3rd & 4th from left).

Aroyo de san Bol is a single building a few kilometers off the main

track. When I arrived I was warmly welcomed by Louis and the group of

pilgrims sitting inside talking and eating. At first I thought that a

man called Pepe was Louis since he was loud, had a commanding

presence and dominated the group. But, as it turned out, Louis was

the quieter smaller fellow wearing a beret. He was a very attentive

host and after we talked for awhile, he set about to prepare a lunch

for us of bread and soup with the help of an assistant. More pilgrims

drifted in, and as we sat down to lunch there were about 10 of us.

A relaxing lunch at Aroyo de san Bol.

I had an interesting conversation with one of his regular guests about

the fate of the Knights Templar. There was another rumor about Louis

and a contemporary Templar secret society. We ate lunch outside the

building in a pleasant courtyard and were amused by Louis who picked

up a pair of powerful binoculars to spy on any new pilgrims traveling

the main road which he could see across a field. We ate and talked

for awhile before getting our things together and heading out again

towards Castrojeriz about 16 km ahead. I must say that I noticed no

unusual or uncomfortable vibes at Aroyo de san Bol or in the person

of Louis. I walked the last part of the way to Castrojeriz with Wanni

discussing our respective lives and plans. As we approached the town

down a long straight road lined with poplar trees, it struck me as

being one of the most beautiful towns I had seen so far. It is

situated around a large high hill with a ruined castle dominating the

very top. Very medieval in feeling. On the way to the refugio we

visited a beautiful church which was a perfect introduction to

Castrojeriz. When we finally wove our way through the streets to the

refugio and entered, we were handed a song sheet and joined in

singing pilgrim songs with great enthusiasm for about half an hour.

The singing was led by the charismatic old pilgrim who dominated the

gathering at Aroyo de san Bol. After the singing I made my way

upstairs to claim my bunk and wash up a bit before finding my dinner

in a local bar with a young German named Gerhard.

Louis & Evelyne.