Los Arcos - Viana

Church of the Holy Sepulchres.

Walked out of Los Arcos early (as usual) heading for Viana which is

only 18.5 Km (11 miles) away. At 10:30 I arrive at Torres del Rio

where I have orange juice at the beautiful little 12th century Church

of the Holy Sepulchre. This is a very unusual octagonal Romanesque

church which some believe to have been built by the Knights Templar,

principally because of its resemblance to the octagonal Church of the

Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem which was under their protection.

Unfortunately, the church was closed and as I lingered for a moment

the group of American students I met back in Estella came through.

One guy was carrying two heavy packs. One on front and one in the

usual back position. I was told that one of the women had injured her

knee and he was helping her out. I was very impressed, not only with

his charity but also with his strength.

Shepherds hut.

I march onward into a blazing hot sun across a stretch of wheat

fields where the only shelter I found from the sun was a shepherd's

stone hut. I was burning up and as I ate my last melted chocolate bar

from home, I put more sun block on my arms which were not looking

good due to overexposure. According to Aymery de Picaud, a French

priest credited with writing a travel guide in 1130, more than half a

million people a year made the pilgrimage. Even more make the

difficult trip today during holy years, and I console myself that

what I am experiencing is not nearly as difficult and treacherous as

it was eight centuries earlier. Then, the rivers were polluted, food

could be difficult to obtain and robbers would be a constant threat

to your life. On to Viana which I reach in an exhausted condition at

around 2:00. Although it is early, I decide to stay here at the

refugio which turns out to be one of the finest and with only four

pilgrims other than myself. A Spanish bicyclist, a German man who I

have run into off and on and who relies on two crutches, and a Dutch

couple, also on bikes. Viana is a fine looking town and the refugio

is right next to the 14th century ruins of the church of San Pedro.

Church of San Pedro.

Since I have my choice of bunks, I select one next to a window

overlooking a wide valley towards Logrono. Below my window there is a

public park which is behind the church and is bordered by a wall

beyond which there is a steep drop to the street below. I felt very

grateful for the rest here. After a dinner of prosciutto, cheese,

bread, tomato, and wine, I watched as the sun began to set at about

9:45. Earlier I bought a length of rope and some clothes pins to hang

my laundry on the window casings with and after having coffee with

the Dutch couple who are counselors, I turn in. Almost everyone I met

from Holland has been a counselor of some sort. I'm not sure if that

means that the Dutch are extremely well adjusted from all the care,

or in such poor condition that they require lots of care. My small

sample of encounters is no indication of course, and the people I

have met from Holland have been exceptionally warm and well adjusted

people.

Refugio at Viana.